things I'd like to pass on about quake and fire resistant
construction.....
For the neo-homesteader type, one suggestion is on stick built
framing, after the framing is up and before you set the trusses on
the top plate, get a cargo bander and run a few bands around the
entire top of the structure, leaving a gap for nailing on the
sheeting..... overlap the banding, over a wooden member, and then
after tightening w/banding tool and clip, punch a half dozen holes
with a sharp punch and drive annular ringshank nails thru both layers
of banding... if possible use more than one strap, three or four
wouldnt be too many, as this is where the house will come apart in a
quake, its where all the tension is.....
I would also reccomend going with lighter weight roof
sysems/sheeting, avoid three tab or rolled roofing on heavy plywood,
due to weight and fire danger, avoid shingles, shakes etc. for same
reasons.... For earthquakes you want a building thats both lightweight
and strong...
personally I'd go slab on grade with a concrete stemwall, so I
could earth berm the building for thermal efficiency.. and I would
put two or three times as much steel in the concrete as called for by
code, and I would put steel at both the bottom and top of any
concrete section rather than just at the bottom... quakes can flex a
structure both upwards and down, normal steel engineering has the
re-enforcing at the bottom, assuming dead loads concentrated there..
I would also use more fasteners from stemwalls and footings than
normal, and I'd likely use an air nailer on plywood and use
construction adhesive where ever possible..
I have mixed feelings about drywall, I dislike it for all the usual
reasons plus a few.... Its very heavy... and for quake resistence the
last thing you need is several more tons of shit over your head...
personally I'd be more likely to go open beam ceilings, and make up
a sandwhich of quarter inch plywood, using constructon adhesive to the
wood, then a couple inches of rigid styrofoam also using plenty of
adhesive, and then go steel or aluminum sheet roofing lagged thru to
the wooden beams.... If your beams were on either 24 or 48 inch
centers it would make a nice ceiling, on 48 inch centers I'd notch in
cross pieces of smaller lumber to keep the thin plywood/foam
sandwhich from sagging between the beams.........
Also to cover joints....
One thing overlooked in modern carpentry is the ability to easily do
post and beam style notched together construction... The pros are in
too much of a hurry to pay the bank and the bartender, but notched
together framing is easily acomplished by the owner/builder with
modern electric hand tools and is vastly superior to nailed together
structures strength wise....
I am experimenting with notched together structures using 5 degree
triangulation, and instead of fastners going to nylon rope laced thru
holes drilled in the lumber and edges of holes chamfered with a sharp
gouge to remove the sharp corner, that sets up a stress point for the
lashings.....
I found the notching easy with my worm drive saw, and stood the top
and bottom plates on edge so the studs could be angled and notched in
at top and bottom like dividers in a liquor box....
using several wraps of nylon rope on a triangulated structure creates
an ingredibly strong fastening system, better than a steel bolt which
can snap off or pull through or splinter the end of the structural
members... its neoindiginous looking with the structural members also
tapered wherever possible to reduce weight...
And very very strong and also incredibly pretty, and could use the
same type plywood/foam/metal sandwich as used on the roof to leave the
pretty carpentry exposed.....
A word on code;
Construction Codes are another example of the Tyranny of good
intentions.... to prevent a few morons from buying poorly constructed
homes, they have once again resorted to collective punishment....
and modern construction is both several times more expensive, and
several times heavier than actually required for physical reasons...
we are required to build heavy flat snow load roofs, when a lighter
steep roof with slick metal roofing would shed the snow... I like
steep roofs for metal sheet, and flatter ones nailing on three tab....
I dont imagine I'll ever do another three tab roof in my life... I
find asthetically that a roof slope of 45 to 60 degrees is best from
an artistic point of view, 45 degrees is angle of incidence, meaning
snow will shed.... 60 degrees is better asthetically, and on a metal
roof the only thing that will stick to it is bird shit, and only until
the next rain.... it also provides better free space to use for
lofts, which are very nice for bedrooms...
Back towards point; building codes;
in the modern run your life/tax you up the butt drone-driven reality,
a building permit can cost more than what it costs to build a decent
shelter...
my advice is lead the curve into the post modern anti-drone reality
by going stealth construction....
buy a generator to run tools and a few solar panels to run house,
dont bother ever hooking to the Nuke Plant...... its cheaper in the
long run, safer, and puts more government workers into the
unemployment line where they belong.....
I know, I used to be one....
but I was honest enough to quit....
there are alot of homeless people, soon more, after that many more..
they arent going to be able to enforce building codes on rural private
construction.....
so if you move out into the sticks, just paint everything green,
brown etc. and plant camouflage shrubs and hedges, and place your
construction in the center of your land rather than on the front
edge....
put up defensive style fencing, electrify it, and ocaisionaly feed
big dogs inside of it, I reccomend German Shepherds, my ex meter
reading buddy swears its the only breed you wont successfully
intimidate... two or three are adequate for the most stupid drone
to figure out, and to make the pepper spray routine risky....
German shepherds also are good hunting dogs, especially for pig
related animals... (which is why they're also known as "police" dogs)
and they are good with live stock as per name..... they also are
extremely protective of women & kids.... and will stop domestic
violence.....
another reason I like a bermed stemwall, is defensive purposes... Due
to increasing quake danger keep the heavy stuff low, and build lighter
and stronger if possible as you go up....
I also reccommend you build a sub grade cellar inside the house,
or accessed from inside, and if possible hide the enrtance... have a
second exterior hidden exit, as any Oregon Gray Digger (ground
squirrel) would advise..... I also reccomend that your water well
be inside the cellar, and have a hand pump..... this is also for
defensive purposes.....
so there you have it, some concepts on construction with an eye
towards the future...
yup! A few big dogs, a house in the brush, grow a beard, a Gun
owners of america sticker on the front gate, along with
a private property/"government free zone" sign,
or maybe; FEMA=Fertilizer? and maybe post a few targets with the
bull shot out?
Drones dont know how to listen, but they can read......
--
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